Fashion has long been synonymous with cultural and social changes, and nothing seems to embody this more clearly than hemlines. For instance, the Hemline Index, credited to 1920s economist George Taylor, attempts to connect the economy to the length of women’s skirts and dresses by way of the hosiery worn at the time. Though this theory has been repeatedly debunked, what does exist is a relationship between what we wear and the current social climate.
Hemline trends come and go, but ultimately the length of your hemline is one of personal preference. Your choice may be influenced by fashion, as well as dictated by the occasion you are dressing for, and the silhouette of the garment itself. Not all lengths are appropriate for all situations. A longer skirt can be too formal or even cumbersome for some activities, while a short skirt might get you the side-eye in the workplace or at a place of worship.
One other reason to care about hemlines is that they can fool the eye into elongating or shortening your vertical proportions. When looking at a hemline, you want to consider your height, as well as the general appearance and shape of your legs. A flattering hemline can be one that either disguises or shows off your limbs, depending on your preference. There is a hemline to complement every body type!
The hem lengths most familiar to us are the maxi, midi, knee-length, and mini. Other styles, like the ballerina or micro mini, fall in between or around these broader categories. There are also asymmetrical types like handkerchief and high-low hemlines, which we will discuss more broadly.
So read on to learn about the lengths that suit you best, plus perfect ways to pair each one!
Maxi Length
This hemline is one of the longest in length, usually ending at the ankles (full or floor length would be several inches longer). This popular look is also the most forgiving and looks great on any body type. With maxi length, the cut of the garment contributes greatly to the final appearance. An A-line compliments every body from curvy to thin. Meanwhile, a straight style like a pencil skirt will balance out the hips and shoulders and place more focus on the waist, but it may not be the best choice with bulkier hips and thighs.
Pair with: A puffy sleeved top is a great choice with a maxi hemline because it gives the illusion of a smaller waist as it draws attention upward and elongates the frame. A body suit is also another great option for a smoothed over look. T-shirts and crop tops work well too. Just make sure the shirt or overlayer is cropped, tucked in, or very long so that it maintains the long lines created by the lengthy hemline.
Midi Length
This length is also called the “tea” length because of its popularity among the tea time crowd in the 1940s. Midi skirts and midi dresses usually fall below the knee and end anywhere until mid-calf — it’s a semiformal to formal look, depending on the style and fabric. Midi skirts are most flattering on taller bodies as it helps break up the elongated visual. On petite bodies, and those with extra curvy legs, the look can fall flat. But even if your best friend chooses midi gowns for all her bridesmaids, there is still hope. You can trick the eye by adding a pair of heels in the same color as your dress to lend the illusion of length.
Pair with: Midi skirts are one of the most versatile styles and can be easily dressed up or down depending on the top you choose. A midi can be worn with tank tops, bodysuits, and t-shirts. Varying textures and prints will help to build out your wardrobe. One rule of thumb is to look for tops that create structure and shape. Avoid bulkier sweaters and slouchy, loose styles that can lead to a sloppy appearance.
Knee Length
Knee length skirts are appropriate for almost all occasions, from a work function to a night out. This length looks great on tall bodies as it breaks up the long silhouette. Self-conscious about the look of your legs? This skirt is IDEAL for those who want to show off shapely calves, while hiding the thighs. But if you’re petite, you may wish to avoid this hemline altogether as it does not build up your height.
So where IS knee-length anyway? Modern stylists suggest looking for a knee-length skirt that ends right ABOVE the knee; mid-knee is okay with some styles, but if the skirt covers the knee, it may be too long and will result in a short, truncated look even on tall bodies.
Pair with: Don’t be afraid to get flirty with your pairings! Because this is a basic style, consider looking for knee length skirts in bolder colors or fabrics. A graphic t-shirt or fun fabric or print are a great way to play up this vintage hemline. Ankle boots or sneakers are another way to add spice. If you do go with flats, consider an eye-catching contrasting color or design.
Mini Length
Mini length skirts and dresses end several inches above the knee and work great when you want to elongate your legs. For this reason, a mini is perfect for shorter, more petite bodies, though almost every body can wear them. There are various kinds of minis to reflect your style.
One rule of thumb to keep in mind when buying a mini dress or skirt is to look for one that hits at the narrowest part of your thigh. While the mini length may be flattering, it’s not always appropriate for all occasions. Flirty and fun suits a dinner date or a party, but is not ideal for a work function or family event unless paired with opaque tights for a more covered-up look.
Pair With: A mini can be paired with almost anything – from a preppy sweater to a sharp blazer or crop jacket. A basic blouse can make a mini more formal, but a sleek body suit and belt slims the figure and is perfect for a night out. If you want to add even more height, wear your mini with heels, either pumps or boots. Oversized jackets look on-trend with a micro-mini, particularly for evening events.
Asymmetrical Hemlines
There are several kinds of asymmetrical hemlines, including v hems, diagonal hems, the hi-low and the handkerchief, with the latter of the two being more common. Asymmetrical skirts can be high fashion, flirty, or funky depending on the fabric as well as the hemline. If an angular style is too sharp for you, look for a gently dipping hi-low style.
Pair with: To avoid a baggy appearance, pair longer asymmetrical hems with t-shirts and other form fitting tops. If the skirt is very sharp or structured in appearance, like an origami skirt, look for a looser fit top that balances it out. An off-shoulder sweater is another excellent option for a youthful look. If the skirt has a high waistline, a v-neck is a sexy and sophisticated selection. Pair with a belt for a polished, fashionable style. Bulky material? Unusual hemline? Look for a soft, thin shirt and try a french tuck!
A Final Note
Balodana’s selection of made-to-measure clothing is tailored to suit all shapes and sizes, and includes hemlines of every type and length. When ordering custom designs, your own measurements are factored into the creation of the garments, and many of our designers can offer adjustments to a hemline to ensure it flatters you best – just send them a message and ask!
Our stylists suggest:
Shantima’s three-tiered bohemian style skirt looks great on every body. We also love this midi length dress with a classic, slightly hi-low hem by Samshek. Or play up your beautiful legs with this fun pleated flare black mini, also by Samshek. Tavrovska’s cheongsam style knee-length dress can go from board room to dining room with just a few accessories. Prefer something sharp and sophisticated? The asymmetrical cut custom dress from Aiste Anaite is the ideal addition to any wardrobe – make it perfectly you by choosing your favorite color from over 50 options!
Resources:
https://sewguide.com/skirt-length
https://blog.treasurie.com/skirt-lengths
https://infinite.styletheory.co/flattering-hemlines-for-body-types/
https://iamstyle-ish.com/2022/04/shirts-to-wear-with-maxi-skirts.html
https://www.lifewithmar.com/fashion/gorgeous-ways-wear-midi-skirt
https://www.ladyrefines.com/what-to-wear-with-asymmetrical-skirt/
https://fashionmagazine.com/style/how-to-wear-asymmetrical-hems